At the south-westernmost corner of the United Kingdom, Cornwall has it all. A chequered history, half heroism and noble achievements, half smuggling and skulduggery; a glorious coastline, all rugged cliffs dotted with secluded sandy coves (which is where the smuggling came in); enough ‘otherness’ to make it interesting (including its own language, Kernowek, once all but dead but currently enjoying a revival); and quaint towns and villages surrounded by gorgeous countryside.
Which, as with most places, is best explored on foot. Long a magnet for visitors, the county is crisscrossed with footpaths and bridleways, of varying lengths and proximity to Duloe Manor. But if you’re pressed for time, these two shortish walks will give a flavour of what’s on your doorstep. You can drive to your starting point, walk the walks, and then get back to your starting point using public transport.
Hopefully these two modest but enjoyable walks will tempt you to go further afield on your next visit!
Looe to Polperro – 5½ miles
Six hundred and thirty miles of fantastic coastal walking around the South West Peninsula, the South West Coast Path extends from Dorset’s Poole Harbour in the east to Minehead in the north.
The pretty village of Looe
A mere fraction of the total, the nonetheless rewarding Looe-to-Polperro walk features rock pools on beaches, secluded coves, a 6th-Century monastery (Sclerder Abbey), pretty seaside villages and towns and awe-inspiring coastal scenery.
After parking at the railway station, follow the signs down Station Road to the bridge. Cross over the bridge to West looe, turn left and walk alongside the pretty harbour, down Quay Road. At the end you’ll see a steep hill which bends: walk up this hill. Caution: there is no pedestrian footpath and the road is narrow so be aware of cars.
At the top continue along Marine Drive, which offers fabulous views of St George’s Island, past the tennis courts and the cafe. Go through the gate in the corner and join the South West Coast Path. Stay on the Coast Path until you reach Talland.
Talland Bay
Dropping sharply downhill into the car park at Talland, turn left at the Smuggler’s Rest cafe-restaurant, and then left again past the toilets.
This way to Polperro!
To continue along the Coast Path, take a right along the metalled path, uphill towards Polperro. Eventually you will drop downhill into Polperro village.
The bus stop is at the top of the village, close to the Crumplehorn pub (above). Buses (the 573 service) run frequently to Looe Health Centre, just down the road from Looe railway station.
Looe is about 3½ miles south of Duloe, via the B3254 and the A387. There are three main car parks in the town, but the Station Car Park looks the best value: £3.90 for a full day if you arrive after 10am.
St Keyne Wishing Well to Causeland Halt – 1½ miles
Taking in the Holy Well (or wishing well) of St Keyne, this is a comparatively short walk along Cornish country lanes, deep in the East Looe Valley.
After parking near the railway station (St Keyne Wishing Well halt; no official parking but you can leave your car pretty much anywhere), go past the tall building straight ahead, a former mill, and follow the road round to the left; ignore the junction to the right. The lane now starts to climb, with high banks to either side.
Image: © Copyright Tony Atkin via Geograph and licensed for reuse under Creative Commons
At the top of the hill, you come to a junction and St Keyne’s Well (above). The well is famous for its connection with newlyweds (basically, whoever drinks from the well first will enjoy the upper hand throughout the marriage) and the story is displayed in the slate for you to read.
From the well, go left down the hill to the St Keyne Well Hotel. This imposing building was constructed in 1884 by the wealthy returning owner of an Indian tea plantation.
The road drops back down into the valley, passing a large abandoned quarry on the right-hand side. Carry on past what’s left of an old lime kiln. You’ll soon reach the little halt (below) at Causeland (as with the St Keyne Wishing Well, a halt is a station where stops are requested by the passengers). At the station, behind the platform, you can see the remains of the old canal.
Image: © Copyright Ben Brooksbank via Geograph and licensed for reuse under Creative Commons
Looe Valley Line trains run regularly from Causeland Halt back to St Keyne’s Wishing Well (regularly, but not frequently – it’s advisable to check the times first), and cost £1.80 per person for a single ticket.
St Keyne is just under 2½ miles north of Duloe, taking the B3254.